Off the beaten path Cruises in Lan Ha bay and Cat Ba Island

We stayed in Cat Ba for three nights during our three-week trip to Vietnam last month. On our second day, we swung by the three Cat Co beaches for a look-see, only to find them all crowded. We went on a weekday; imagine how packed they would be on a weekend. Also, dotted among the throng of beachgoers were a couple of female tourist photographers who would follow them around, to the water even, and take pictures for a fee. While these enterprising cameramen are a common sight in other attractions (Rizal Park, anyone?), it was my first time to see them on a beach. (An aside: I do wonder if this is still a viable trade, with everyone and their mother armed with camera phones these days).

Luckily, our guide during our island motorbike tour earlier showed us the way to another beach just west of town. This beach is called Tung Thu Beach, also known as Cat Co 4 among the locals.

Once upon a time, Tung Thu Beach was bustling like the Cat Co beaches, with a restaurant, cabanas, and the whole shebang on the shore, but for some reason all of these now lie abandoned. Tung Thu Beach is part of an ambitious real estate development project called Cat Ba Amatina. When we passed by its grounds on the way to the beach, though, there didn’t seem to be any work going on. Our guide earlier said that nobody was interested in buying the villas they planned to build (I guess they didn’t do a feasibility study…). There’s also a danger of falling rocks on one edge of the beach because of cliff erosion, but it’s safe as long as one avoids that area.

With the amenities looking downtrodden, obviously Tung Thu Beach isn’t on any of the tourist maps. There were only a few locals when we went there. No motorbike parking fees, no touts, no crowds.

The downside to being an abandoned beach which was really good for us. It’sa nice escape from the hustle and bustle of town.

The best way to get to Tung Thu Beach is by motorbike, as the electric buggies don’t venture out there. One can easily rent a motorbike anywhere for a few bucks a day. I can’t remember the exact way we got there, only that we headed west from town, entered the seemingly abandoned Cat Ba Amatina area, and rode toward the shore until we saw the welcome arch

After that, we traveled with Sails of Indochina, we can cruise far away from the tourist crowds and off the beaten tracks. Our junks are also the only ones that can cruise full-sail in the bay (depending on the wind).  In any case, they offer private cruises which means you and your family will be the only one aboard with the crew. If you arrive at Hai Phong airport, the driver can pick you up and drive you to the ferry to Cat Ba Island, the crew is awaiting for you to start the authentic and off beaten path cruise. Sails of indochina is a sustainable and responsible business. We always focus on respecting our customers, staff and the local people and cultures. We share the benefits of sustainable tourism with local communities and protect Lan Ha Bay's environment.