Puluong Nature Reserve and Authentic Homestay

The Nature Reserve
Pu Luong Region stretches all the way from Mai Châu to Cuc Puong National Park. The region is quite unknown among most tourists, but that does not make it less worth to visit. Pu Luong may attract you thanks to its stunning rice terrace fields, beautiful nature, breath taking mountain passes and traditional villages of ethnic minorities who still retain their unique cultural heritage and way of living.

Pu Luong Nature Reserve is located roughly 180 South West of Hanoi. The reserve has a total area of 17,662 ha and ¾ of the nature reserve is primary tropical forest. At the same time this is the living place of ethnic Muong and Thai people. In Thai language Pu Luong means: the highest peak of the village.

Pu Luong offers many opportunities for tourists, such as trekking in the forest and along the rice terrace fields, cycling through the reserve and visiting many authentic small villages. It is a real “off the beaten track” destination.

As mentioned before, Pu Luong Region is unknown among most tourists, but Pu Luong has all the highlights of Northern Vietnam in one place! Pu Luong is a “microcosm” of Northern Vietnam. Containing Sapa’s magnificent mountain ranges, Mu Cang Chai’s stunning rice terrace fields, Cao Bang’s scenic rivers and waterfalls, Ha Giang’s breathtaking mountain passes and Mai Chau’s authentic villages of ethnic minorities.

Do you want to stay in a total peaceful place, away from the mass, with outstanding beauty and bio diversity along with villages of ethnic minorities?

Pu Luong Nature Reserve was established in 1999 is roughly 170km from Hanoi. Being a nature reserve with a total area of 17,662 ha, 3/4 of the nature reserve is primary tropical forest. This is also living place of ethnic Muong and Thai people. Pu Luong means the highest peak of the village, in Thai language.

Recently, Pu Luong becomes a great destination for a few day trips from Hanoi. Trekking in the forest and a long rice paddy fields, cycling through the reserve and visit many beautiful small villages are among the activities travelers like. Pu Luong is among a few "off the beaten path" places near Hanoi that receives recommendations from explorers recently.

Scenery is beautiful with two ranges of mountains on both sides creating a lush green valley in the middle dotted with traditional villages. The locals here are among the most friendly people in Vietnam. You can always be invited to their homes for a cup of tea on your way. The local culture is rich and authentic. Villagers are living in small villages nested in the valleys, in their traditional house on stilts. Joining on a dance after dinner is always an unforgettable experience.

The best time to visit Pu Luong is during rice harvest season, from September to November or February until May. This time, the plantation is lush and weather is pleasant. Pu Luong can be best accessed either from Mai Chau or NinhBinh. Multiple day trekking through va to Pu Luong on the least visited trails is also a good option for trekkers. Trekking through villages including Ban Sai, Ban Hang, Ban Kho Muong or Ban Hieu and stay in one of the authentic homestay is the best activity one can do here. There are options for everyone including families with small children. Handspan Travel Indochina is currently offer tours to Pu Luong Nature reserve  in combination with Mai Chau, NinhBinh and Ha Long Bay. The tours cover some interesting areas that give you a real taste of authentic Vietnam. Let's us show you the best of this un-discovered place.

Highlights in the reserve
Pu Luong offers you a great amount of different beautiful sights. All attainable by car or stunning treks. Come to Pu Luong Nature Reserve and be amazed!

Hidden villages and everyday life
Beyond Hieu and Kho Muong hamlets lay more than 20 additional Muong and Thai traditional villages nestled in hidden corners across the Pu Luong valleys. Discover the rhythms of everyday life, interact with local villagers, learn about local customs and witness colourful festivals and celebrations as one of the few “outsiders” that locals encounter.

Every Thursday and Sunday mornings, join villagers from near and far at the eclectic Pho Doan farmer’s market and discover exotic produce grown in the area. Or simply visit a home where the villagers can show you how they live and traditional ways of work, like for example weaving.

Rivers and Water wheels
Nua and Cham rivers are two scenic waterways that cut through the Pu Luong valleys. These abundant water sources feed the extensive rice fields as well as provide a local place for washing, cleaning and watch women along the shore to graze their cows.

Visiting the river, you can spot locals fishing with traditional weaved fish baskets or with fishing nets dropped from their bamboo rafts.
Most distinct in this region are the beautiful bamboo water wheels that dot the riverside. Only in Pu Luong will you see such an abundance of these centuries-old water supplying devices in active use, feeding rice fields and local households with their ingeniously simple design.

Pu Luong Peak
Rising up behind Pu Luong Retreat is the region’s highest peak at 1700m above sea level. A 10km trek leads up to a stunning clearing giving views across the whole Pu Luong Nature Reserve on a clear day. A further ascent through thick tropical forest leads you to the very top where keen eyes can spot discarded building stones left by the French who had planned to build an airport base on the peak, before being forced to abandon their plans following their defeat at Dien Bien Phu. With the peak conquered, you can descend via a different route that leads back to magnificent rice terrace valleys below.

Kho Muong Hamlet
Only 10km from Pu Luong Retreat, and accessible by car/motorbike or a scenic trek, lies pretty Kho Muong hamlet, at the base of a steep valley. Its remote nature means you can still witness life has it has been over the centuries, revolving around rice fields, vegetable gardens and livestock. A short walk through the hamlet and the rice fields, where you can witness how the people of Kho Muong work in the rice fields, takes you to Hang Doi Cave. This massive cave suddenly appears and will leave you speechless for a while. The cave is known for the 5 species of bats that live here in their thousands. The brave can also climb into the cave for an up close view. This walk will amaze you by the greatness of the cave. Try to find rocks who are totally transformed by the water drips coming from the upside of the cave.

Hieu Hamlet and waterfalls
Scenic Hieu hamlet sits above a hill of tumbling rice terraces and straddles two gushing waterfalls whose easy-grip limestone rocks allow the adventurous to climb up the falls – a must-try experience! Alternatively, you can simply relax in refreshing natural pools and afterwards enjoy traditional family meal cooked with produce direct from the land – including home-raised chicken and fish and wild leaves and vegetables from the garden. Hieu hamlet is a 20 km transfer by road from Pu Luong retreat, or a 12 km trek through a beautiful valley of rice fields and scenic villages.

The interesting connections:
With the renovation and building of new roads, Pu Luong is easily reached overland. The shortest way is 160 km and a 4 hour drive from Hanoi. This road takes you up to high undiscovered areas in Pu Luong. Enjoy beautiful landscapes and views while driving through small authentic villages. The road passes through two provinces: Hoa Binh and Thanh Hoa. Along the way there are many worthwhile stops for a panoramic view of the valley of Pu Luong, ethereal foggy forests of bamboo and the stone valley that might remind you of Halong Bay.

Another way from Hanoi is 180 km and a 4 hour drive. The first 120 km you follow the legend Ho Chi Minh Trail. The next 50 km takes you along the famous Ma (horse river) and through beautiful rice fields. The last way from Hanoi is via Mai Chau. This road is 190 km and a 4,5 hour drive. This road is to be advised when combining Mau Chau with Pu Luong.

In general, Pu Luong has good connections with various well-known destinations. Mai Chau town, only 45 km and a 1,5 hour drive from Pu Luong Retreat, is the homeland of the Thai people and likewise the gate to access North West Vietnam with Son la, Dien Bien, Lai Chau and Sapa. 2 hours South East of the Retreat gets you to Ninh Binh complex, with Cuc Phuong National Park and The World Heritage Trang An water land. Travelers who want to travel further to the remote Northern Laos provinces, could make a stop over in Pu Luong for 1 or 2 nights.

The Puluong Area
Laying 500 meters above sea level, with an average temperature of 22-25°C, Pu Luong Retreat is truly a green and peaceful escape from noisy cities. Just 50 meters from well-paved and quiet roads, you reach the retreat by coming through a green oasis with traditional houses, panoramic views, vegetable gardens and old palm, jackfruit and grapefruit trees. A small road downhill along rice field terraces takes you to small villages of the Thai people who still maintain their pure culture.

Highlights of the area are:
+ Located on a hillside, divided in three layers, Pu Luong Retreat guarantees you a stunning view from every corner of the Retreat.
+ Bringing  the rice field and farm activities up close to your very own eyes.
+ Plenty of old tress and a full green coverage.
+ Buildings that are designed to disappear in nature.
+  A nice stream floating, watering the area and offers the amazing sound of the water gurgling its way down in summer.

Cycling
The steep valleys and off-road tracks provide a breath taking route for any biker. Cycle past stunning rice terrace fields, narrow dirt tracks, hard-surface valleys and mountain passes.

Transfer options are also available for those who want to enjoy the scenic trails without the challenge of a continuous upward climb on the return. Biking level differs from easy, moderate to advanced. Leisure cycling through local villages is also an ideal options, practically in the lowland of Pu Luong. Contact with our biking expert to get the guideline.

Trekking
Choose from a number of magnificent trekking routes, passing through outstanding rice terrace fields, stunning hills and valleys and fascinating hamlets giving a glimpse of daily life. There are several trekking loops to choose from ranging from a short 5 km scenic stroll to nearby villages to a challenging hike to conquer Pu Luong’s highest peak with camping in the fresh outdoors. There are trails waiting for you to discover – ask at reception to discuss your options.

Rafting
Travel and venture as a fisherman and cruise down a calm river on traditional bamboo rafts and watch local farming life by on either side.
This peaceful way of floating through the Cham River is very unique and far from boring as beautiful scenery is everywhere around you. For the active, you can join in with your own paddle and experience the daily journey of the local fishermen. We recommend to combine this activity with the Water Wheels walk.

Relaxing
Besides all activities, we highly recommend you to relax and do nothing. Enjoying the peaceful atmosphere, relax with a glass of wine at the pool, read books, join our daily gardening, farming, watering and rice cultivation. Highly recommended for family stays and honeymoon couples.

Kayaking
For the adventure lovers who want to increase his adrenalin, the river kayaking is a very option, especially during rainy season.
Paddle your way through stunning river landscape, passing traditional stilt houses, impressive water wheels and farm land.
Negotiate small rapids and the occasional small dams on your inflatable kayak to arrive at a jaw-dropping field, a perfect spot to combine breath taking scenery with lunch or a snack.

Camping in the fresh outdoors
Sleep under the stars, be woken by a mountain sunrise, enjoy the fresh air as you become intimate with nature. Survive with only the most basic facilities in the forest or on a hilltop for a wholly rustic experience. Camping on your own, or with our guide to enjoy the hidden spots, all equipment hire and delicious pre-prepared food you can heat over an open fire. Camping permits and set up can be arranged for you in advance so please enquire early.

Volunteering
On request we can arrange different volunteer programs for our guests. Think about constructing roads, fixing schools, building brick ovens or reconstructing houses to support the local people of Pu Luong Nature Reserve. Please contact us for further information and options.

Sustainability
We are well aware of the negative effects tourism can have. By working in a sustainable way we try very hard to reduce those effects and turn them into positive effects.

The vision of the Retreat tells you a lot about why and how this Retreat was build:
+ Create a harmonious space, balanced with nature and locally sourced products that enables guests to have a deeper connection with the local area.
+ First of all do we train our staff to be aware of environmental management. We set up a training program, so they learn how to operate in a sustainable way. Besides that we encourage them to recycle products and to separate waste.
+ We try to use environmentally friendly products. Therefore we only use local ingredients and vegetables from our own gardens in the restaurant. Local handicrafts are sold at the second floor of our common house on stilt to support the local people. The Retreat is built with materials from the local area. From stones collected by the riverside to sustainable bamboo sources from the Pu Luong forest. We utilise the craftsmanship of talented locals who lend their traditional skills to create unique pieces for our retreat (such as fishing-basket-lamp shades from a nearby village and bamboo hammock beds from Mai Chau).

In addition, we use special filters in every water tap to reduce water consumption. We use cold and clean mountain water for our infinity pool. The water will constantly float into the swimming pool and will float further down into the rice terrace fields, so we will not waste any water. To clean the pool we empty the pool completely by letting the water float into the rice terrace fields once a week. In this way we avoid the need to use chlorine or other chemicals.

To ensure the air quality we have offer our guests a special smoking area. At all other places at the Retreat, people are not allowed to smoke. This way we maintain the clean air in the area and reduce the change of fire.

Moreover, we also employed local builders, carpenters, craftsmen and other workers, including 2 family members of the original land owner. The key-staff is mainly from Mai Chau, other staff is all local. Activities are organized in cooperation with locals. Besides that we promote the local culture. All this to support and make the locals benefit from the presence of our Retreat.

Out of respect for the area and local community we kindly ask our guests to keep the noise down and avoid yelling and screaming. After 9pm. people are not allowed to make loud noise around the bungalows and house on stilt.

To provide you with more information about sustainability by designing and building of the Retreat, we want to tell you more about hidden details that you can find in and around the Retreat!

Up-cycling nature
You can go on a nature treasure hunt at the Retreat to find natural pieces gathered from across Pu Luong: riverside rocks used to make a stone wall; leftover tree trunks made into stools and benches; and discarded granite rocks used as stepping stones and bungalow bases. All are part of our guiding principle to work creatively with what nature provides.

Maintaining vegetation
See the VIP bungalow up close and you will notice a unique feature – its design incorporate 2 large jackfruit trees moulded into its structure. This exemplifies the principles of the Retreat, where no existing feature, or tree, is removed unnecessarily and buildings themselves need to work around the dimensions of the land, trees, rocks and slopes.

Especially notable is an agreement with 82-year old Tran who used to live on the property, that the enormous jackfruit tree towering at the base of the Retreat can never be touched. Already famed across the region for its age, impressive size and the sweetness of its fruit, Tran wants to ensure the tree, intrinsically tied to memories of her youth, can never be removed.

Inverting local crafts
Hand woven by locals, fish baskets have been used by locals for centuries in local rivers to trap fish in its funnel. At the Retreat, these fish baskets are transformed into impressive lamp shades of different designs. This is typical across the Retreat – use local products handmade by local craftsmen such as 73-year old Thinh, and be creative in its use.

Getting creative with bamboo
The abundant bamboo resource from Pu Luong is used extensively across the Ban Hieu Retreat, all hand-built by local carpenters. Additional one-off handmade pieces is designed for the Retreat by Duc, a local self-taught bamboo master. His reading lamps, bamboo lamp shades and sun beds can be spotted in every corner.